Lake Okeechobee
Days 10-12, 49 miles
I wake at 7:20 to start my second day on the Eastern shore of Lake Okeechobee, and I'm surprised that it's gotten so late, as I haven't been sleeping all that well. So far I've been awake around 5 each morning. That's fine in the summer; it's starting to get light anyway and I can just get up and go. First usable light in January, though, isn't until 6:45 and I don't like to walk in the dark. I did note that I woke up feeling rested which was nice, and I hoped that I'd be back to a more normal sleep pattern now. But I had miles to do today, and a schedule to do them on! I needed to get going. I'd been aiming to reach J&S Fish Camp, a roadhouse with beer, a food truck, live music from noon to 4, and more beer. I've got 14 miles ahead of me, and I'd like to get there between 2 and 3. The trail follows a mostly paved bikepath, with a few sections of crushed limestone. It's flat, it's easy, and it's fast.
The day before I'd been dropped off back at the trail by Bill Troxel, a friend from Xilinx. He and his wife graciously hosted me at their house in Fort Myers, and even took me boating for a day. It was a much needed break after the swamp and levee miles, and all the better for the good company. We even got to watch The Expanse together; it was nice to watch with a fellow fan.
I meet another hiker my age and we walk together for a while. He just won a recent battle with cancer, and has his sights set on completing the full 4400 mile Eastern Continental Trail, of which the 1000 mile Florida Trail is just a fraction. He's already 300+ miles into his journey, and walking longer hours and more miles per day than I am. The miles pass and there's plenty to see: herons and ospreys and a bald eagle; a powered paraglider, two airplanes practicing touch-and-go landings on a small airstrip, and a float plane flying only about 30 feet over the shore; fishermen motoring the canal in their small boats; the shoreline and town to the far north slowly appearing over the horizon.
We reach J&S Fish Camp together a little after 2. We meet another two groups of hikers just outside. There's 9 of us altogether, the biggest group I've seen in one place. We all catch up for a bit, then split up, some heading for food, some for miles. Out front there's a long row of Harleys guiding the way in, a food truck sitting squat off to the side, and a musician on an outdoor stage playing guitar and singing honky tonk tunes. I order a Philly Cheesesteak that comes smothered with a giant pile of onions and peppers(perfect, veggies are like gold on the trail), stayed for a couple of beers and a dozen quite enjoyable songs, and headed back out. I did pass on the opportunity to buy a souvenir T-shirt emblazoned with "Cracker Squad" and the Confederate Flag. I chatted with the local bikers and watched a Jack Russell terrier bark with the audience each time we applauded a song. She apparently liked the music too.
I stop that evening a further 8 miles north, just after the sun sets across the water in another blaze of orange. Lake Okeechobee has definitely delivered on the sunsets. I wanted to get within 9-10 miles of town, as the weather forecast was for heavy rain starting at 10am, and I figured enjoying an Egg McMuffin and a coffee indoors would be a nice way to see how the weather played out. It made for nearly a 22 mile day and I go to bed with achy feet, but the effort was rewarded the next day.
The next morning I had to defend myself from a rather vicious little creature before I could even get going. I was quietly attending to morning business when I felt a small but very sharp stab of pain. I figured maybe I squatted over a pokey plant, so I stood up a bit, took a look at the grasses and weeds, pushed aside a couple potential candidates, and resumed my interrupted business. I get shocked with another sharp stab of pain, like I've been poked with a needle where I most definitely do not want to be poked. This time I stand up and carefully examine myself instead of the plants. And there is the attacking creature, a tiny ant holding on tightly with his little bitty jaws. Little bugger. I pull him off, thankful it isn't a fire ant, and move on pain free :)
I hoof it 9 miles to town without any breaks, with the wind and clouds building the whole time. Two blocks from McDonald's it starts raining lightly. By the time I'm seated with a coffee and breakfast, it's raining buckets with lashing winds, thunder, and lightning. Checking the local weather forecast, I see that a waterspout alert and small craft advisory have been issued. I'm quite happy to be inside! I park myself by an outlet, plug in my electronics to charge, and stay for 2 more hours and another sandwich. Tomorrow I'll start again.
