Suwannee
I wake early in the White Springs B&B, and that's fine as there are a couple long days ahead. Two, twenty mile days will set me up for a 10 miler into Jay Veer Food Mart which is rumored to have a good, hot lunch buffet. A couple hikers are leaving as I come downstairs, and the rest of the old house is quiet still. Judith, the owner, makes me a couple scrambled eggs for breakfast, plus coffee for both of us. We sit in her living room for a good hour and chat about life, time, how we each got to where we are now. Judith is a retired 3rd grade teacher, and wanted to move to a small town after teaching. Unfortunately her husband passed away shortly after retiring, but she continued following her dream, and bought the old, two-story, 1905 boarding house 16 years ago. She runs it on her own as a B&B, and has travelers who have turned into supporters and return to help with repairs and restoration. She's building a terrific community around her, and I enjoyed my stay and our time over coffee very much.
The Suwannee River drains the Okefenokee swamp in southern Georgia through northern Florida and into the Gulf of Mexico. The Florida Trail runs along it for 60 miles or so, a little over three days of hiking. The river is absolutely gorgeous in the morning light. Heavy, misty air gives way to crisp reflections in the smooth, glassy water. The trail mostly follows the riverbank and has a seemingly endless series of short climbs and descents. Even with the greater effort the ups and downs require, it's a beautiful, beautiful section.
I get one afternoon of rain through there, plus one cold morning with temps in the 30s, but I also get treated with an armadillo that slowly ambles by, and a rare Indigo snake that races away quickly. I do make it to the Jay Veer in time for the buffet, and get treated to a giant plate of fried chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, and jambalaya for only $9. I eat until I can't anymore, charge my electronics, and set out again. After another half day of trail moving away from the river, I have a couple long roadwalk days ahead. But the Suwannee was gorgeous, and I'm ready to go.
